KHUMCHU RI (GPS: 6064 m, 33o14'32" north, 76o 50'52" east )
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Khumchu Ri (marked with A, 6064 m), as seen from upper Tetleh glacier. View towards south. Photo is showing south slopes, photo Matija Jošt |
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Khumchu Ri (marked with A, 6064 m) as seen from east face of Kun Long Ri. View towards west, photo Matija Jošt |
Red line marks ascent route of Davidova-Jošt. It is believed that they made first ascent of Peak, 5thAugust 2015, alpine style. Peak was climbed at first via 400 m long southeast ridge (up to grade 4 UIAA) and continued via 600 m long snowy east ridge (up to 50o). All together 1000 m of climbing, but 550 m of height difference from high camp (AK C2, 5549 m) to summit. It takes 8 hours of ascent and 5 hours of descent, they think overall grade of climb is D+.
AK C1 and AK C2 indicate bivy sites
during their (acclimatization) climb.
B marks P5830 m, D marks P5850 m, E marks
P5910 m, F marks P5885 m. It is believed that all these summits are still
unclimbed and can be approached via Tetleh Nala. Heights of the peaks are approximate.
It is possible that peaks are higher.
C marks pass (5720 m), to Miyar
Glacier.
KUN LONG RI (GPS: 6058 m, 33o14'19''
north, 76o54'26'' east
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Kun Long Ri (6058m, marked with G) as seen from Khumchu Ri. View towards east. Photo is showing west face of Kun Long Ri, photo Anastasija Davidova |
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Kun Long Ri – north (left) lower part of west face as seen from Tetleh Nala. View towards east, photo Anastasija Davidova |
Red line indicates ascent route of Davidova and Jošt. It is believed that they made first ascent of the peak. Alpine style, from 13thAugust to 17thAugust 2015. They climbed west face and north ridge. Length of the climb is 1500 m, height difference from beginning of climb at the foot of the west face to the summit is 750 m. Overall grade is TD+, rock climbing up to 5+ UIAA, and ice-snow slopes up to 70o. They descent at first the route of ascent, but from site of B3 they headed towards east to neighboring valley via northern snow slopes. Name of the route: Happy Journey.
B0, B1, B2 and B3 indicate
their bivy sites, arrows marks rappels during ascent. Green line indicates descent route. They descent at first the route of ascent, but from site of B3, they headed towards east via northern snow slopes to reach glacier (they suggested name Slovenian Glacier).
H marks P5756 m and I
(see lower right corner of photo) marks P5350 m.
RI
POK TE (GPS: 6210 m, 33o15'59'' north, 76o52'41'' east)
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Ri Pok Te (6210 m, marked with J), east face. View towards west, photo Matija Jošt |
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Ri Pok Te (6210 m, marked with J), west face. View towards northeast from summit of Khumchu Ri, photo Matija Jošt |
Red line indicates ascent route of
Davidova and Jošt. It is believed that they made first ascent of the peak.
Alpine style, from 25thAugust to 27thAugust 2015. They
climbed east face to southwest ridge, then traversed into west face to avoid
difficult ridge section and regain southwest ridge and continued to summit.
Overall grade is TD+/ED-, rock climbing up to 6- UIAA. Length of the route 1200
m, height difference from beginning of climb to the summit is 1000 m. Name of
the route: From East to West. Descent was made more or less via route of
ascent mostly by rappelling (20 x 50 m) and some down climbing. At the foot of
the face they followed prominent ramp (green line), “bivy” marks the site of
two bivaks. The same line was attempted in 2011 by British Imperial College
Expedition (Prinold-Scott).
K
marks unclimbed summit of R3 (6036 m). L marks Moel Kangri (5930 m). First
ascent of Moel Kangri was made in 2011 during British Imperial College
expedition. Just hidden behind Anastasija is unclimbed R2 (6040 m) and right
out of picture is Lama Jimsa Kangri (6276 m) climbed by British Imperial
College Expedition in 2011.
PANORAMA of mountains on the west side of Tetleh valley from above Onkar
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Ri Pok Te (6210, marked with J) and unclimbed R3 (6036 m, marked with K). View towards southwest from just above Onkar, from entrance to Tetleh Nala, photo Matija Jošt |
Red line indicates ascent route of
Davidova and Jošt.
PANORAMA of mountains on west side of Tetleh valley
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Panoramic photo of mountains on west side of Tetleh valley, as seen from west face of Kun Long Ri. View towards west and northwest, photo Matija Jošt |
Khumchu Ri (marked with A, 6064 m) as seen from east face of Kun Long Ri. View towards west. Red line marks ascent route of Davidova-Jošt.
B marks P5830 m, D marks P5850 m, E marks
P5910 m, F marks P5885 m. It is believed that all these summits are still
unclimbed and can be approached via Tetleh Nala. Heights of the peaks are approximate.
It is possible that peaks are higher.
C marks pass (5720 m) to Miyar
Glacier.
O marks Lama Jimsa Kangri (6276 m) climbed
by British Imperial College Expedition in 2011 via southern slopes and via
facing coluir. N marks R5 (5829 m).
Ri Pok Te (6210, marked with J). Red line
indicates ascent route of Davidova and Jošt.
K marks unclimbed summit of R3 (6036 m). L
marks Moel Kangri (5930 m). First ascent of Moel Kangri was made in 2011 during
British Imperial College expedition, M marks Sakanglaya (R1, 6020 m).
PANORAMA of mountains above Tetleh glacier – east side of the valley
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Mountains above Tetleh Glacier on east side of the glacier. View towards southwest. Photo Matija Jošt |
Arrow points towards pass (5720 m) to Miyar glacier marked with C. P marks P5710 m, U marks P 6080 m, R marks Tetleh Kangri (6100 m), T marks P5750 m. All these mountains are unclimbed.
S marks
Bhaio Aur Bheno Ki Khushi (5985 m), first climbed in 2011 by British Imperial
College expedition (Bull-Masania).
In the
left part of photo is lower part of P5750 m west face, also unclimbed.
PANORAMA of mountains on east side of Tetleh valley from Khumchu Ri
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Mountains on east side of Tetleh valley as seen from summit slopes of Khumchu Ri. View towards east, photo Anastasija Davidova |
G marks Kun Long Ri (6058 m). Red line indicates
ascent route of Davidova and Jošt.
V marks P5890 m, X marks P5790 m, Y marks P5750 m. W
marks twin summit of P5940 m and P5950 m, Z marks P5980 m. It is believed that
all these summits are still unclimbed. P 5790 m marked with X was attempted by
British Imperial College expedition in 2011 (Bull-Masania). Heights of the
peaks are approximate. It is possible that peaks are higher.
In foreground is southeast ridge of Khumchu Ri. Red line marks ascent route of
Davidova-Jošt.
PANORAMA of mountains on east side of Tetleh valley
Mountains
on the east side of Tetleh valley as seen from pass between Lama Jimsa Kangri
and Khumchu Ri. View towards east and southeast, photo Matija Jošt
G marks Kun Long Ri (6058 m) climbed by Slovene 2015
expedition (Davidova-Jošt).
V marks P5890 m, X marks P5790 m, Y marks
P5750 m. W marks twin summit of P5940 m and P5950 m, Z marks P5980 m. It is
believed that all these summits are still unclimbed. P 5790 m marked with X was
attempted by British Imperial College expedition in 2011 (Bull-Masania).
Heights of the peaks are approximate. It is possible that peaks are higher.
Picture showing west faces of peaks, foots of these faces are at around 5200 to
5300 m.
S marks Bhaio Aur Bheno Ki Khushi (5985
m), first climbed in 2011 by British Imperial College expedition
(Bull-Masania).
PANORAMA of mountains on east side of Tetleh valley from north
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Mountains on east side of Tetleh valley as seen from above base camp. View towards south, photo Matija Jošt |
XX marks
P5763 m, G marks Kun Long Ri (6058 m) climbed by Slovene 2015 expedition
(Davidova-Jošt).
V marks P5890 m, X marks P5790 m, Y
marks P5750 m, I marks P5350 m. It is believed that all these summits are still
unclimbed. P 5790 m marked with X was attempted by British Imperial College
expedition in 2011 (Bull-Masania). Heights of the peaks are approximate. It is
possible that peaks are higher.
S marks
Bhaio Aur Bheno Ki Khushi (5985 m), first climbed in 2011 by British Imperial
College expedition (Bull-Masania).
PANORAMA of mountains on west side of Tetleh valley from above base camp
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Mountains on west side of Tetleh valley as seen from above base camp. View towards southwest and west, photo Matija Jošt |
Ri Pok Te (6210, marked with J) climbed by Slovene 2015 expedition (Davidova-Jošt). Peak was attempted in 2011 by British Imperial College Expedition (Prinold-Scott). Photo is showing circa 1000 m high northeast face. JJ marks P5620 m.
K marks unclimbed summit
of R3 (6036 m).
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