SUMMARY
Attractive unnamed and unclimbed rock spires above Tetleh glacier. From left P5950 m, P5940 m and 5980 m as seen from west. It is possible that peaks are indeed higher. Photo: Matija Jošt |
MEMBERS OF THE EXPEDITION
Anastasija Davidova – Nastja (36 years) deputy leader,
nastjadavidova@gmail.com
Matija Jošt – Matic (44 years) expedition leader, maticjostsp@siol.net
Chetan Pandey, lasion officer (L.O.)
Heera Singh, cook
Members of the expedition from left to right Anastasija Davidova – Nastja, Matija Jošt – Matic, Chetan Pandey, Heera Singh, photo Anastasija Davidova |
Matija Jošt – Matic (44 years) expedition leader, maticjostsp@siol.net
Chetan Pandey, lasion officer (L.O.)
Heera Singh, cook
AGENCY IN INDIA
Himalayan
Run&Trek Pvt. Ltd.
T-5,
Manish Chamber Plot No.-6,
Block
– B, Mayur Vihar Phase – 2,
Delhi
– 110091, India
Managing
Director: Chander Shekhhar Pandey
Mail: hrtindia91@gmail.com
We
cooperated with HRT for the third time and again we were very pleased. They
provided excellent service and everything went very smoothly. Also their cook
Heera was phenomenal. They provided us with all
road and off-road transport in India up to our base camp, accommodation and food for the duration of the expedition.
INTRODUCTION
The Raru valley is located in northern India, in the
Ladakh region, the state of Jamnu-Kashimir. It is named after Raru village
(3800 m), which is the starting
point for the expeditions visiting the area.
Raru village lies some 25 km south of Padam (capital
of Zanskar) and can be reached by car. Raru Mountains massif is comprised of
three bigger valleys - from east to west: Katkar Nala, Nateo Nala and Tetleh
Nala. South of the massif is Miyar Glacier.
Our expedition
was focused on one of the valleys in the Raru Mountains – Tetleh Nala. This
valley is surrounded by numerous peaks between 5700 and 6250 meters high, some
with up to 1000 meters high walls
and difficult to access; the others seem more accessible and attract with their
snowy and icy slops and walls. We planed the whole
expedition as three members team, but Aljaž
Tratnik seriously injured his knee just a week before expedition and had to abandon his participation.
The Tetleh
Nala has been so far visited only by one expedition and information they
published made us believe that it might be hiding some nice mountaineering
challenges. The aims of our expedition was climbing new routes and ascending unclimbed mountains in the valley. Some of
them were before presumably unclimbed. Our second goal was to help with mapping
of the valley and identification of mountains.
It is prohibited to use satellite phone in India, so
our expedition didn’t use it. For the communication with the Europe (and inside
India) we used public services from larger towns along our way. There is telephone in Raru village. We took Thuraya phone but it
was dissembled during our stay in India and kept by L.O. in base camp. During
our climbs we used simple
walkie-talkie set to report our position to base camp every evening. L.O. and
cook also used FM radio to listen the news in Hindi.
I am old
enough to remember how it was to climb in Himalaya without weather
forecast. In the era of too much noise in the air it is really refreshing to be
in remote mountains on your own. During our expedition weather was unstable until 24thAugust. It rained a little almost every day, but the longest rainy
(snowy) period without interruption lasted only four hours. All mountains
cleared very quickly. Temperatures were mild for the time of the year with night freezing
temperatures at around 5500 m. After 24th August weather was super
clear but colder and windier.
During our
ascents and trips up the Tetleh Nala we used a small watch-like GPS device (Garmin Forerunner 310XT,
borrowed from our friend) to determine our position. We took readings to all
summits we climbed and also on all bivy sites. Sometimes we measured some characteristic
waypoints along our way. Accuracy of readings was up to 10 m for horizontal
position and up to 20 m for elevations (we recorded GPS-WGS84 ellipsoidal
heights). Before expedition we printed a map
template based on Google maps contour view and used it for the sketching on
field. So after processing our observations, Sakamoto’s maps, map of the
British 2011 expedition, local people testimonials about names of the Peaks, we
made a sketch map of the Tetleh Nala.
SHORT MOUNTAINEERING HISTORY OF RARU MOUNTAINS
2009. Japanese senior “Kyoto Zanskar
expedition” (leader Kimikazu Sakamoto) visited Raru mountains massif. They made
exploratory trek in to Katkar Nala and Nateo Nala and names the peaks from R1 to
R35. Their report in AAJ 2010 suggested that 21 peaks in Raru mountain range
are virgin. Part of their report was also sketch map of the Raru Mountains. It
is believed that this was the first mountaineering visit to Raru Mountains.
2009. British expedition to Katkar Nala
made ascents of Skilma Kangri (5979 m) and Mt. Jules (5800 m). They reported
their activity in AAJ 2010.
2011. Swiss expedition made ascents of Red Apple Peak (6,070m), GoCook Peak (6,050m) and Tong’a
Miduk Ri (Hidden Peak in Ladakhi, 6,040m) above Katkar glacier. Their report
can be found in AAJ 2012.
2011. »IMPERIAL COLLEGE RARU VALLEY 2011
MOUNTAINEERING EXPEDITION« visited Tetleh Nala. They made ascents of Lama Jimsa
Kangri (6276 m), Moel Kangri (5930 m), Bhaio Aur Bheno Ki Khushi (5985 m) and Base Camp Big
Wall (5385 m). They also made some attempts on other peaks. They published
report in AAJ 2012, they put their excellent report on web site of the college
and an article on http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=4209
2012. Greek expedition to Katkar Nala made ascents
of Katkar Kangri (6148 m), Mutik Skal (6243 m), Skilma Kangri (6020 m), Lama
Soo (5947 m). They operated without IMF permission and reported about their expedition in AAJ 2013 and on http://nikolas.kroupi.gr/in12/index.html
2014. Swiss Ski expedition
made ascent and ski descent of Sonam Ri
(6060 m) above Katkar Nala. They reported in AAJ 2015.
2015. Local people at Raru
village told us about large Swiss team in Katkar Nala or in Nateo Nala. They
left the area just before our arrival. We didn’t know anything about their
activity. We were sorry to hear that one member drowned when crossing the river on
their trek out from the valley.
CHRONOLOGY OF THE EXPEDITION (20th July 2015 – 9th
September 2015)
20thJuly 2015: Air flight from
Slovenia to India (Delhi)
21stJuly
2015: Arrival to Delhi. Briefing at IMF, L.O. Chetan and cook Heera set off by
road to Leh, with most of the baggage.
22ndJuly 2015: Delhi
23rdJuly 2015: Air flight from Delhi
to Leh.
24thJuly 2015: Acclimatization walk
above Leh to 5000 m. Chetan and Heera arrived to Leh.
25thJuly 2015: Drive from Leh to
Kargil.
26thJuly 2015: Drive from Kargil to
Padum.
27thJuly 2015: Drive from Padum to
Raru.
28thJuly 2015: Short trek from Raru
to Onkar (4000 m). We hired 11 horses and two horsemen.
29thJuly
2015: Trek from Onkar to base camp. We set our base camp in Tetleh Nala (GPS: 4623 m, 33o16'17''
north, 76o54'15'' east).
30thJuly 2015: Base camp.
31thJuly
2015: Acclimatization trek upwards Tetleh valley. We set our bivy at side
moraine of Tetleh glacier at altitude of 5169 m (AK C1; GPS: 5169 m, 33o14'05'' north, 76o52'17''
east).
1st
August 2015: We continued our walk up the Tetleh glacier to altitude 5300
m and return to base camp.
2nd August 2015: Base camp.
3rd August 2015: Trek up the Tetleh
valley to the site of our first moraine bivy (AK C1) at 5169 m.
4th
August 2015: We continued our walk up the Tetleh glacier and towards
unnamed and unclimbed mountain on the west side of the valley just south of
Lama Jimsa Kangri (6276 m). We set our bivy at 5549 m (AK C2; GPS: 5549 m, 33o14'03'' north, 76o51'44''
east).
5th
August 2015: Ascent of Khumchu Ri (GPS: 6064 m, 33o14'32"
north, 76o 50'52" east). We believed we made first ascent of
the peak. We started at 9:00 from our bivy and returned after 13 hours
roundtrip.
6th August 2015: Descent from bivy
(AK C2) to base camp.
7th August 2015: Base camp.
8th August 2015: Exploration walk
west from base camp up to altitude of 5100 m.
9th
August 2015: Trek up the Tetleh Nala towards unnamed and unclimbed
mountain on the east side of the valley. We set our bivy just at the start of
our proposed line of climbing at the foot of the west face at 5325 m (B0; GPS: 5325 m, 33o14'41''
north, 76o54'01'' east).
10th
August 2015: Bad weather forced us back down to base camp. We left most
of our equipment at bivy site.
11th August 2015: Base camp.
12th August 2015: Exploration walk up
to the base of the east face of Ri Pok Te.
13th
August 2015: Trek up the Tetleh Nala towards unnamed and unclimbed
mountain on the east side of the valley. We picked our equipment at the foot of
the face and start our climb up the west face. We set our bivy at 5533 m (B1; GPS: 5533 m, 33o14'43''
north, 76o54'05'' east).
14th
August 2015: During the night and in the morning there was some bad
weather but we continued our ascent and climbed some more 200 m to reach the
north ridge at cca 5700 m. We bivouacked at ledge on north ridge. (B2; GPS: 5688 m, 33o14'41''
north, 76o54'12'' east). Some snow showers at evening.
15th
August 2015: Very nice weather. We needed five hours to reach the
beginning of snowy part of the ridge. We set our third bivy at 5689 m on really
nice flat spot (B3; GPS:
5689 m, 33o14'34'' north, 76o54'17'' east).
16th
August 2015: Kun Long
Ri (GPS: 6058 m, 33o14'19'' north, 76o54'26'' east). Summit
day despite cloudy and cold weather. We reached the summit at 14:00 and we
believe it is first ascent of the peak. We descended at first the route of
ascent, but from site of B3, we headed towards east via northern snow slopes to
reach glacier in the neighbouring valley. We continued descend to the Raru Nala
and us reached Onkar (4000 m) just before midnight.
17th August 2015: Trek from Onkar to
base camp.
18th August 2015: Base camp.
Anastasija started to feel toothache.
19th
August 2015: Anastasija and Chetan went to Raru and forward to Padum to
see the dentist. Matija and Heera stayed in base camp.
20th
August 2015: Matija and Heera trekked up to the beginning of Tetleh
glacier to pick up some equipment left on previous occasions. Heera returned, but Matija hiked up on the
glacier to 5400 m to take some photos. Anastasija felt better after dentist
visit and together with Chetan they returned to base camp late in the evening.
21st August 2015: Base camp.
22nd August 2015: Base camp.
23rd August 2015: Base camp.
24th
August 2015: We made an attempt to start climbing up east face of
unclimbed Ri Pok Te (Sakamoto mark this peak R4). Some snow showers rolled in
and we left our equipment at the foot of the couloir and returned to base camp.
25th
August 2015: At 5:00 we started from base camp up the eastern slopes of
Ri Pok Te, at 7:00 we started scrambling up the couloir. We followed quite the
same line as British pair (Prinold-Scott) did and reach nice bivy site (R4 Bivy; GPS: 5920 m, 33o15'55''
north, 76o52'50'' east).
26th
August 2015: Ri Pok Te
(GPS: 6210 m, 33o15'59'' north, 76o52'41'' east). We
started our second day of ascent at 9:00 am o’clock when it became warm enough
for climbing in rock shoes and without gloves. In perfectly nice weather we reached
what we consider the highest point of Ri Pok Te at 15:30 o’clock. We
descended more or less via route of ascent to
reach our bivy spot late at night (23:00 o’clock), where we spent short but
cold night.
27th
August 2015: We continued our descent. We descended more or less via route of ascent
mostly by rappelling (12 x 50 m) and some down climbing to reach our base camp
at 17:00 pm.
28th August 2015: Base camp.
29th August 2015: Base camp.
30th August 2015: Sunday trek on
slopes east of base camp.
31st August 2015: Base camp.
1st
September 2015: Base camp. At
evening arrived eight horses, two horsemen and teacher from Raru village.
2nd September 2015: Trek from base
camp to Raru village.
3rd September 2015: Drive from Raru
to Padum.
4th September 2015: Drive from Padum
to Kargil.
5th
September 2015: Drive from Kargil to Leh. Anastasija and Matija stayeed
overnight in Leh, Chetan and Heera continued their drive to Delhi.
6th September 2015: Flight from Leh
to Delhi.
7th September 2015: Delhi. Arrival of
Chetan and Heera. IMF debriefing.
8th September 2015: Delhi.
9th September 2015: Flight from Delhi
to Ljubljana (Slovenia).
MOUNTAINEERING OBJECTIVES
Ascent of Khumchu Ri (GPS: 6064 m, 33o14'32" north, 76o50'52" east)
Ascent of Khumchu Ri (GPS: 6064 m, 33o14'32" north, 76o50'52" east)
Anastasija enjoying on rocky south-east ridge of Khumchu Ri, Photo: Matija Jošt |
Actually
it was our acclimatization climb. After morning rain shower we were skeptical
about our day out. Anyway we set off and during the day weather improved. After
short approach from our tent (we passed beside some small rock fence, one of
very few British trace in the valley) we reached snow flank leading to southeast
ridge from the north. At first we climbed some 400 m of rocky southeast
ridge with difficulties up to grade 4 UIAA on high quality rock. Then we
continued some 600 m on snowy east ridge, which did not exceed 50o to the summit. All together 1000 m of climbing,
but 550 m of height difference from high camp (AK C2, 5549 m) to summit.
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We made our descent via south slopes and back up to gain southeast ridge and back to our bivy at 5549 m. It took 8 hours for ascent and 5 hours for descent, we think overall grade of climb is D+. The shape of the summit gives us association of bird’s beak so we named the peak Khumchu Ri (Khumchu means beak in Ladakhi language and Ri means peak). We thought that Sakamoto marks this peak as R7. It was really nice enjoyable climb. We believe we made first ascent of the peak, it was 5thAugust 2015. At the summit we fixed nylon tat and enjoyed nice views.
Ascent of Kun Long Ri (GPS: 6058 m, 33o14'19''
north, 76o54'26'' east)
Kun Long Ri from the southwest, photo Anastasija Davidova
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Attractive peak on east side of the Tetleh
valley seemed appropriate goal for us after we felt acclimatized enough. Left
part of the west face of the peak looked safe, rocky part of the ridge above it
was a riddle, continuation to the summit supposed to be straightforward. Our
first try ended at the foot of the west face because some rain showers forced
us back to base camp. Next time we were luckier. We approached in nice weather
and picked up our equipment at the beginning of the climb. We climbed some 200 meters of good
quality granite up west face (up to grade 4 UIAA) and set our bivy at 5533 m (B1; GPS: 5533 m, 33o14'43'' north, 76o54'05'' east). It wasn't comfortable and without
water (nor snow). When night came to an end it started raining. We didn't carry
a tent but bivy sack gave us enough protection. Later in the morning weather
improved, we continue our ascent and climb some more 200 m on good rock (up to
grade 5+ UIAA) to reach the north ridge at cca 5700 m. Ridge itself was rocky,
narrow and with gendarmes. We tried to climb forward just to reach more snowy
terrain some 300 m ahead, but ridge turned out to be very tricky so we returned
for two pitches to a bivy ledge where we spent the night. (B2; GPS: 5688 m, 33o14'41'' north, 76o54'12''
east). Evening snow shower cooled out our heads. Early morning sun melted the snow powder and we were
psyched to continue. We climbed some 300 m distance avoiding difficult ridge
gendarmes on east side of the crest. Rock quality on east side was not so good
and we made also two rappells (2 x 30 m) down the east face. The climbing was
rock up to grade 5 UIAA and ice (max 60o). We needed five hours to
reach the beginning of snowy part of the ridge. We set our third bivy at 5689 m
on really nice flat spot (B3; GPS: 5689 m, 33o14'34''
north, 76o54'17'' east).
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Looking down the west face of Kun Long Ri, photo Anastasija Davidova |
Tricky rocky part of north ridge, Kun Long Ri, photo Matija Jošt
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Clear night ended with clouds
coming in from the south. It was cloudy and cold in the morning. We didn’t give up after three days of
ascending and summit didn’t seem so far away. From our bivy we climbed up the
snow slopes of north ridge (max 65o) to the notch 100 m below the
summit.
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Just below the summit of Kun Long Ri, photo Anastasija Davidova
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From the notch we traversed in to the west face and climbed mix ground (rock up to 4 UIAA, and ice up to 70o) to the summit. We reached the summit at 2 pm. Weather somehow cooperated and there was more and more sunny spells during the afternoon. From the summit we mostly down climbed the route of ascent but on some occasions we made 4 rappels (4 x 30 m) to reach site of B3. At that point we decided to descent to the neighborhood valley. We headed towards east via northern snow slopes to reach glacier (we suggested name Slovenian Glacier, foot of the glacier GPS: 5110 m, 33o15'03'' north, 76o55'05'' east. We continued descend via very broken moraines to the Raru Nala and reached Onkar (4000 m) just before midnight. On the next day we regained our base camp. Very common question in India, when you communicate with locals is “Do you have a happy journey?” Indeed we had a happy journey. We believed we made first ascent of the peak. Length of the climb is 1500 m, height difference from beginning of climb at the foot of the west face to the summit is 750 m. We thought overall grade is about TD+. Name of the route: Happy Journey. Ascent took place between 13th and 17th August 2015. Under the impression of 14th Dalai Lama book “Ethics for the new millennium” we named the peak Kun Long Ri. He explains: “Kun Long, the term for what is considered to be of the greatest significance in determining the ethical value of a given action is the individual's kun long. Translated literally, the participle kun means "thoroughly" or "from the depths," and long (wa) denotes the act of causing something to stand up, to arise, or to awaken. But in the sense in which it's used here, kun long is understood as that which drives or inspires our actions - both those we intend directly and those which are in a sense involuntary. It therefore denotes the individual's overall state of heart and mind. When this is wholesome, it follows that our actions themselves will be (ethically) wholesome.”
Ascent of Ri Pok Te (GPS: 6210 m, 33o15'59''
north, 76o52'41'' east)
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After Anastasija’s troubles with
toothache and her return to base camp we still had plenty of time to try
another objective. Ri Pok Te (Sakamoto mark this peak R4) attracted us with its
east face. The luxury of early morning sun proved too strong magnet and we
couldn’t resist it. British team (Prinold-Scott) attempted nice looking pillar
in 2011, but they retreated due to bad weather from around 6000 m. We thought
that their line was safe and suitable despite pillar itself didn’t lead
directly to true summit. Our first push ended very quickly because some snow
showers rolled in before we managed to reach the foot of the face. We left our
equipment at the foot of the couloir and returned to the base camp. Next day at
5:00 we started from base camp up the eastern slopes of Ri Pok Te. Approach to
the face was short, we picked our equipment and at 7:00 am started scrambling
up the couloir. Higher we moved left (south) out from the couloir to the
prominent pillar follow quite the same line as British pair (Prinold-Scott)
did. We put on our rock shoes but continued climbing unroped. Latter we start
belaying and we climbed ten (10 x 50 m) pitches before we reached nice bivy
site (R4
bivy; GPS: 5920 m, 33o15'55'' north, 76o52'50'' east).
Despite 4 more hours of daylight we decided to stop. Climbing was on excellent
granite on really nice slabs never exceed grade 4+ UIAA. As long we moved on
sun it was enjoyable warm, but in the afternoon shadow it became cold.
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Still some 1000 m to go, photo Anastasija
Davidova
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Night was perfectly clear and
cold with no wind. We started our
second day of ascent at 9:00 o’clock when it became warm enough for climbing in
rock shoes and without gloves. Six pitches of very nice climbing on excellent
rock (up to grade 6- UIAA) brought us to the southwest ridge (GPS: 6149 m, 33o15'55''
north, 76o52'43'' east). We tried to continue via ridge, but it
looks complicated so we traversed some 100 m diagonally down in to the west
face. Nice ledges brought us to the foot of 80 m dihedral. We climbed it to
regain southwest ridge (grade 5+ UIAA) at notch with jammed block and continued
along the ridge (first grade 5 UIAA than easier) to the summit. In perfectly
nice weather we reached what we consider the highest point of Ri Pok Te at
15:30 o’clock. Summit ridge is almost horizontal and it widen to plateau
towards north. We descended more or less via route of ascent
mostly by rappelling (8 x 50 m) and some down climbing to reach our bivy spot
late at night (23:00 o’clock), where we spent short but cold night. Next day we
continued our descent. We descended more or less via route of ascent mostly by
rappelling (12 x 50 m) and some down climbing to reach our base camp at 17:00
pm. We believe we made first
ascent of the peak. We think that overall
grade of the climb is TD+/ED-. Length of the route is 1200 m, height difference
from beginning of climb to the summit is 1000 m. Name of the route: From East
to West, and the quality of climbing 5 stars. We
climbed entire route in rock shoes but carrying our crampons, ice axes and
boots almost to the top. Local people at Raru village know the mountain as Ri
Pok Te. You can see the summit of it from some part of the village and it means
something like: the mountain that hides other mountains and/or mountain from
which you can see backside.
Second day of superb slabs up the east face of Ri Pok Te, photo Matija Jošt |
Exit to the southwest ridge of Ri Pok Te, photo Matija Jošt
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Afternoon joy on top of Ri Pok Te, photo
Matija Jošt
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One of many rappels that bring us back from Ri Pok Te to base camp, photo Matija Jošt |
FINANCES
Outgoings
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amount in EURO
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Air tickets Ljubljana-Delhi-Ljubljana
|
1.180,00 €
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Excess luggage (Ljubljana-Delhi-Ljubljana)
|
320,00 €
|
Air tickets Delhi-Leh-Delhi
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433,71 €
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Insurance
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576,00 €
|
Tax, IMF (we pay one 6080m peak for three members)
|
766,45 €
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Tax, IMF
(extra charge for two additional summits)
|
357,00 €
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Gas cartridges
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76,00 €
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Rental of one oxygen bottle for first aid proposes
|
147,00 €
|
Himalayan Run & Trek package cost
|
7.738,00 €
|
Bank provision by paying some advance
|
40,00 €
|
Visa (tourist)
|
104,00 €
|
Additional high altitude food
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300,00 €
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Personal expenses in India
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300,00 €
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Total
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12.338,16 €
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Total per member
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6169,08 €
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Income
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Alpine association of Slovenia
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3.161,68 €
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Personal contribution of members
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9.176,48 €
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Total
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12.338,16 €
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CONCLUSION
Mountains
above Tetleh Nala and valley itself are great. Upper part of the valley is very
rarely visited even by locals and therefore nature is pretty much unspoiled and
fragile. During our activities we found little trace of British 2011
expedition: some stone cairn at spot of their base camp, stone fence below Lama
Jimsa Kangri, nylon rappell sling in east face of Ri Pok Te. We are
appreciative them for their respective attitude towards nature. They left no
rubbish but they left very nice report and part of their souls.
Blue Himalayan poppy, photo
Anastasija Davidova
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Tetleh Kangri, photo Anastasija Davidova |
For our climbing pleasures we
had chosen such objectives that fit our skills and other circumstances. It
means that we managed to climb in simple (alpine) style. Mostly we used nuts
and friends for protection, we hammered in few pitons, and only one of them
pollutes face of Ri Pok Te, we use it for abseil. We also left some 25 rappell
slings, some of them with carabineers that now “decorate” slopes of Kun Long Ri
and Ri Pok Te. When we left the valley we did our best to clean the base camp.
Every expedition is pollution
somehow; ironically we need them to realize that. One of possible ways to
minimize the pollution is to operate in small teams with modest comfort. We
hope that our successors will be satisfied with our behaviour.
ACKNOWLEGEMENTS
We would like to thank all of
the organizations and individuals who assisted this expedition.
Especially to:
- Slovenian army forces for
Nastja employment as a top athlete.
- Patagonia company for
providing us with warm clothes.
- Alpine Association of
Slovenia (PZS) for a partial funding by the Commission for the Alpine Climbing
(KA).
- Treking-šport, Petzl
distributor in Slovenia for ropes and Petzl equipment.
- Amm d.o.o., distributor for
adidas eywear in Slovenia. .
- Lyofood for dry meals.
- Marmot company, for borrow
us a test tent.
- TopAtlet, for High5 energy
bars ang gels.
We would like to acknowledge
the support, advice and information from mums
Olga and Pavlina, father Silvester, Tina di Batista, Monica Kambič, Klemen and
Anja Bečan, Sergej Jamnikar, Nikolaj Šarlah, doc. Jurij Gorjanc and doc.
Barbara Sodin, Elektro servis in instalacije Vinko Pesjak, Aljaž Tratnik, Mitja
Šorn, Marko Prezelj, Rok Zalokar, Aleš Česen, Barbara Polanšek, Milena
Praprotnik.
Anastasija
Davidova & Matija Jošt